一口吸盡西山水 “Kyoai” no Ecosystem - Land, Sea, and Air
壹楽 染付
Mushimono
“Kyoai” no Ecosystem – Land, Sea, and Air
概要
世界が今日、「アイ」で満ちていく。タイトルは「一口吸盡西江水」という言葉からとったものです。京都西山の松崎陸さんという藍染師の、京藍をエコシステムから復元して普及させようとしている活動の中、捨ててしまう茎や葉っぱの一部を料理に使用しています。
器
京藍の作品に合うように、京焼の染付けを使用しています。
料理
テーマは「ふわふわ」。「食感」は世界共通の言語です。「雲水」で世界を、その下に陸海空の素材を盛り合わせ、京藍のスモークを入れ蓋を閉じ、お客様の前で京藍の茎の出汁を入れます。世界が愛に満ちていく様子を表現し、それらが混ざり合うことで色々な出会いを表現しています。
雲要素
鳥出汁入りカブと玉ねぎのとろみをつけたピュレ
土台3種：陸海空
陸：（白キノコの薬膳テリーヌ／流しもの）花びらだけ、ホワイトマッシュルーム、えのき、白しめじ、やまぶしだけ、干し白キクラゲ、さらに薬膳素材として生姜と鷹の爪
海：カニ身土佐酢漬け
空：大吟醸酒塩漬け地鶏焼き鳥
緑
旬の緑黄色野菜の辛子浸し
生命の芽吹きを表現しています。京藍の若葉が使用できる時はそれを使用しています。
水要素
京藍出汁 Kyoai no Dashi
一度失われた京藍の技法を復活させた、西山在住の松崎陸さんという京藍染職人／アーティスト。その京藍染の過程で生まれる副産物の茎の部分を炒って、それを温泉水で出汁をとる。復元された京藍の出汁。
天盛り
黄色い柚子胡椒。
キャビアが入っているような入れ物に入った高級柚子胡椒で、お客様の興味を刺激します。愛がテーマですが、愛にはピリッとしたスパイスが不可欠です。
煙
京藍の茎をこれまた竹酢液につけて、スモークチップにしたもの 竹酢液は竹炭を作る時の副産物です。
議論
京藍には無限の可能性があります。現在進行中のプロジェクトとして、青い抹茶の開発があります。
Overview
Today, the world is becoming filled with “Ai”—a word that means both indigo and love.
The title of this dish is taken from the Zen phrase “Ikku ni Kyujin su Saikou no Mizu” (To drink up the waters of the entire Western River in a single sip).
This dish is inspired by the work of Riku Matsuzaki, an indigo artist from Kyoto’s Nishiyama area, who is restoring and revitalizing Kyō-ai (Kyoto indigo) by rebuilding its ecosystem.
As part of this effort, stems and leaves that would normally be discarded are incorporated into the cuisine.
Vessel
To complement the Kyō-ai works, Kyō-yaki sometsuke (blue-and-white porcelain) is used as the serving vessel.
Dish
The theme is “fluffiness.”
Texture is a universal language.
The dish is structured as follows:
A layer of “clouds” represents the world itself. Beneath it are ingredients from land, sea, and sky. Kyō-ai smoke is introduced, the lid is closed, and in front of the guest, Kyō-ai stem dashi is poured in.
This moment expresses a world gradually filling with love, and how encounters are created as all elements begin to merge.
Cloud Element
A thickened purée of turnip and onion, enriched with chicken dashi.
Foundation: Three Elements — Land, Sea, Sky
Land
A medicinal terrine / flowing preparation made entirely from white ingredients:
white mushrooms, enoki, white shimeji, lion’s mane mushroom, dried white wood ear mushroom, with ginger and chili pepper as medicinal accents.
Sea
Crab meat lightly marinated in Tosa vinegar.
Sky
Grilled local chicken yakitori, cured in daiginjō sake.
Green Element
Seasonal green and yellow vegetables prepared as karashi-ohitashi.
This element represents the sprouting of life.
When available, young Kyō-ai leaves are used here.
Water Element
Kyō-ai Dashi
A reconstructed dashi made from the stems produced as byproducts of the Kyō-ai dyeing process.
The stems are dry-roasted and extracted using onsen water, resulting in a revived Kyō-ai broth—born from a technique once lost and now restored.
Topping
Yellow yuzu kosho
A premium yuzu kosho presented in a vessel resembling one used for caviar, designed to spark curiosity.
Although love is the theme, love always requires a sharp, spicy edge.
Smoke
Kyō-ai stems soaked in bamboo vinegar are used as smoking chips.
Bamboo vinegar itself is a byproduct of bamboo charcoal production, reinforcing the cyclical use of materials.
Discussion
Kyō-ai holds infinite potential.
One ongoing project is the development of blue matcha, expanding the possibilities of indigo beyond dyeing and into future culinary expression.
